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Let’s try it without the test.gcode that I’m not sure that works hahaha
If you send a gcode like this one:
G0 A10 B10 C10 D10 X10 Y10 Z10
All the motors move together? Everyone moves?
The following gcode should move the motors to the initial position
G0 A0 B0 C0 D0 X0 Y0 Z0
Hi Burcu!
First of all, welcome to the Thor family officialy!
I really like the purpose of your Thor, it’s the same reason I created and shared it 🙂 Feel free to ask!I’m looking to the photos attached to your post and I have a pair of suggestions:
- The power wire is a bit thin, it will limit the amount of current to the board. I would change it for a thicker one.
- I’m seeing that you short-circuited the switch connector, what can be done, but that thin wire will limit a lot the current given to the board. I would change it for a thicker one (the same thickness as the power wire).
I’m using Ø0.5mm (cooper section) wires if it helps!
About the missing Art2Pulley piece… I don’t know what piece is that one. I’m looking to your printed pieces photo and I’m only missing the Art1GearMotor, Art4 MotorFix, Art4BearingPlug and the Art56Interface.
I’m sure you already know it but you got all the updates STL files at the stl folder at Thor’s github repo
Hope it helps!
Angel LM
Hi Burcu,
I don’t get your problem 🙁
Have you connected the motors following this diagram?
Are you using the Universal GCode Sender?
The “Active State” is not “Alarm” (highlighted in red) right?By the way, I’m not sure that the Test.gcode works, I’ll check it ASAP
Let’s find out the issue 😛
Hi Burcu!
I wrote this new page (GRBL & Gcode Control) at Thor’s wiki where is explained how to use the Gcodes to control the Thor motors!
Do not hesitate on asking if you have more questions! 😉Angel LM
Hi Pratik!
If you want to use the same firmware I’m using you have to compile the firmware first. How to do it:
And then you have to upload the .hex file into your Arduino Mega. How to do it:
That’s it!
If you want to modify the code, first modify it using your favorite text editor then compile it and then upload it to the board 😉
Hope it helps!
Angel LM
Hi Roy!
As I already solved the Inverse Kinematics Equation you can start doing the program/script that converts a 3D point (X,Y,Z + the rotation matrix) to the angles of each articulation.
When I was thinking about it, I thought about a python script that reads a 3D point (+ the rotation matrix) from the command line and sends by serial the custom GCode with the solved angles for each articulation.
Hope it helps!
Slic3r has an awesome community and many manuals!
Here is the part of their manual dedicated to supports: http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/support-materialHope it helps! 😉
Angel LMHi Bilge!
When printing things “in the air” we have to create provisional supports (that we’ll remove after the printing is done) in order to avoid the drop of the plastic.
What slicing software are you using? I think every of them have an option like “add support” or something like this. For example, Cura has the support options at the Basic Menu.I suggest you to read something about supports in 3D printing, this article of 3DHubs explains it so well 🙂
Hope it helps 😉
Angel LMHi Juan,
OptoPCBA & OptoPCBB parts are the opto-isolator sensors. You can find the kicad, gerber and drill files at https://github.com/AngelLM/Thor/tree/developer/electronics/opto-isolator
Also, I don’t know if it is possible to reduce the speed of the animation using the Exploded Assembly workbench… Maybe clicking Play and then Pause quickly could help you.
Best regads,
Angel LMLooks nice!
Thanks for sharing! 😉Hi Coppertick!
Welcome to the Thor community!
No questions are stupid, so don’t hesitate to ask! 🙂Hi Triumph,
You are completly right, I fixed the Component list just wight now.
Thanks for noticing!
Awesome! Make sure to share your progress and questions with us 🙂
Good question!
Currently, the sensors PCB I have are the ones that I made using a CNC, which is not the best replicable option I think.
If you want I can disassembly part of my robot to do a photo, but I don’t know if it will help you. I’m curious about how other Thor Builders did with the position sensors, any of you can share their experience?
I also remember that someone told me that there are commercial sensors (like this one) that could fit inside Thor… I think that the 3D model can be modified easily to hold that sensors instead of the DIY ones. What do you think?Best regards!
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