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Hi Pratik!
If you want to use the same firmware I’m using you have to compile the firmware first. How to do it:
And then you have to upload the .hex file into your Arduino Mega. How to do it:
That’s it!
If you want to modify the code, first modify it using your favorite text editor then compile it and then upload it to the board 😉
Hope it helps!
Angel LM
Hi Roy!
As I already solved the Inverse Kinematics Equation you can start doing the program/script that converts a 3D point (X,Y,Z + the rotation matrix) to the angles of each articulation.
When I was thinking about it, I thought about a python script that reads a 3D point (+ the rotation matrix) from the command line and sends by serial the custom GCode with the solved angles for each articulation.
Hope it helps!
Slic3r has an awesome community and many manuals!
Here is the part of their manual dedicated to supports: http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/support-materialHope it helps! 😉
Angel LMHi Bilge!
When printing things “in the air” we have to create provisional supports (that we’ll remove after the printing is done) in order to avoid the drop of the plastic.
What slicing software are you using? I think every of them have an option like “add support” or something like this. For example, Cura has the support options at the Basic Menu.I suggest you to read something about supports in 3D printing, this article of 3DHubs explains it so well 🙂
Hope it helps 😉
Angel LMHi Juan,
OptoPCBA & OptoPCBB parts are the opto-isolator sensors. You can find the kicad, gerber and drill files at https://github.com/AngelLM/Thor/tree/developer/electronics/opto-isolator
Also, I don’t know if it is possible to reduce the speed of the animation using the Exploded Assembly workbench… Maybe clicking Play and then Pause quickly could help you.
Best regads,
Angel LMHi Triumph,
You are completly right, I fixed the Component list just wight now.
Thanks for noticing!
Good question!
Currently, the sensors PCB I have are the ones that I made using a CNC, which is not the best replicable option I think.
If you want I can disassembly part of my robot to do a photo, but I don’t know if it will help you. I’m curious about how other Thor Builders did with the position sensors, any of you can share their experience?
I also remember that someone told me that there are commercial sensors (like this one) that could fit inside Thor… I think that the 3D model can be modified easily to hold that sensors instead of the DIY ones. What do you think?Best regards!
A photo of an Assembled ControlPCB?
I attached one to this message 😉
I
have bought most of the electronic components from Aliexpress and
others like fuses from electronic online shops from my country.Hope it helps!
EDIT: I deleted the previous message because I didn’t attach the image 🙁
Welcome to the Thor community!
Yes, as you say it would be nice to have a way to program the motion in a easier way (probably just giving the XYZ cordinates and the rotation matrix elements). If I’m not wrong I think that Danny is developing a visual tool that makes that, but I don’t really know the state of it. Check his hackaday projects 😉
Also, the Inverse Kinematic equations are available and ready to implement in a program. (It is in my buffer of thing to do, but I don’t know when I’ll have the time…)Hope it helps… at least a bit 😛
Hi Antonio, I can send you PCB+Mats for 30€+Shipping or the already assembled and tested PCB for 60€+Shipping.
Note: I’m not a professional solder, it takes me about 2 hours of work and the results are not like wave soldering (industrial).In both cases the mats include:
- PCB
- All male pins
- All female pins
- All resistors
- All leds
- All capacitors
- All terminal blocks
- The diode
- The fuse
And it does not include:
- Arduino Mega
- Drivers
- Wires
- Motors
- Fans
- Sensors
I prefeer the first option, just because I don’t have much spare time but the assembled is offered anyway! 😉
