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Hi Jamie,
I have used airsoft pellets for that bearing. Them are made of plastic and have 6mm of diameter. I have not tried with metal balls, but this ones work perfectly and are too cheap.
Hope it helps!
Yay! That board seems cool!
Have you tried it? It works? Hahaha It’s weird for me to ask this questions…but I haven’t finished welding mine yet :/Congrats to Lars! He’s officially the youngest Thor builder!
Hi Adam!
It sounds awesome! There is already a smaller design of Thor but not a larger one! Keep us informed 🙂
Best regards,
ÁngelHi guys, I’m welding the components of the PCB in this right moment and I have seen at least one fail in the board 🙁
The pads of the power pins are in the front side instead of beeing in the back side… That makes difficult to solder the terminal block connector. My solution was to inject solder paste through the PCB hole and heat it with the solder. Other solution could be to place the terminal block in the back side.
I’ll fix the board files asap.
Sorry for the inconveniences,Ángel LMHi Jamie,If you don’t mind the shipping time I would recommend you to buy it from Aliexpress (3,5€+Shipping)You can also find them in some 3D Printing local stores.
Hope it helps 😉Hi Amirul,
First of all, welcome to the Thor community 😉
I still have to generate the control documentation, which would include the GRBL mods and how to use the custom GCode. It is on my to-do-list haha.
Answering your question quickly, the way I control Thor via GCode is using forward kinematics. It means that I send to the control board the values of the angles for the 7 motors.
For example:G01 A10 B20 C20 D30 X40 Y50 Z60
This Gcode will move the 1st articulation (A) 10 degrees clockwise, the second (B & C as there are 2 steppers in this articulation) 20º CW, the third (D) 30º CW, 4th (X) 40º CW , 5th (Y) 50º CW and 6th (Z) 60º CW
The Inverse kinematic calculations are already done but it’s hard to implement into an Arduino, due to the calculations per second that the microprocessor has to do.
Hope it helps 😉
I forgot to mention that, at least in this case, the more torque the better. So on equal terms of voltage, current and size if you can choose a motor with more torque do it.
More torque means be able to lift more weight!Best regards 😉
Hi Jamie, i just asnwered your question at Thingiverse, but I’ll answer here again because I think this information could help someone in the future.
For buying stepper motors all you have to look is the voltage (12V
in this case), the rated current (I prefeer under 2A in order to control
it with cheap drivers), the torque (depends on each articulation, but
look at part list specs) and the size of the motor (in this project
there are all Nema 17 with different lengths, also provided in the part
list specs).There are many websites along the net and local stores that sell this kind of motors, as them (except the geared motor) are frequently used on 3D printers.
If you want some links, these are the StepperOnline motors that fit with the specs listed here.
Articulation 1: 1x Nema 17 40 N.cm
Articulation 2 & 3: 3x Geared Nema 17 121.2 N.cm
Articulation 4&5&6: 3x Nema 17 26 N.cm
I think that would be nice to have a list with the online shops that have Thor components in order to ease the shopping.
Hope it helps!
Welcome to Thor’s community Oliver 🙂
Your first printing looks amazing! And printed in ABS with a i3… woah. I tried printing with ABS and it was a fail, so I’m impressed!
Want to see more coming! 🙂
Welcome to the Thor family! 🙂
It looks so cool in yellow! About the Art4 stepper motor heatint: I had the same issue, but after I adjusted the current (at driver) and set the fan it appeared to be solved.
Hope it helps!
